How to soak and clean self adhesive & peel and stick stamps!

uncadonego · **Posted:** Tue Nov 30, 2010 09:02:02 am

That is a good video. Most distillates get rid of gum pretty well. I know that lighter fluid will take off cellophane tape from an arborite countertop with a quick scrape just like the video does for the stamps.

Another method using the eucalyptus oil works well too, especially with a Desert Magic II Drying Book. When you are soaking stamps in some dish-soapy water, toss in your self adhesives too. When you are finished all the normally gummed stamps, start into the self adhesives. Take them out one at a time and tap the tongs on the side to get rid of excess drops. Now put the stamp face down on a clean surface.

By this time the back of the stamp is really soaked well, and one drop of the eucalyptus oil from a dropper or needle-less syringe will soak right in very effectively. The stamp will come right off. It saves using lots of eucalyptus oil, because by this point the oil can just do its job on the gum, rather than having to do the secondary job of wetting the entire back paper, which takes more eucalyptus than just one drop. So far with various stamps, I've had 100% success with this method.

GlenStephens · **Posted:** Mon Jan 10, 2011 09:52:34 am

A timely bump, as 2 folks have asked me about this issue today!

I took a half hour and merged a half dozen existing threads on this subject into ONE consolidated thread - as the info from all 5 threads was often not in the others!

So right here we have the answers to EVERYONE'S question I think - all in one place.

Roly's Video, photos, product names to use in different countries, and soaking removal tips.

chippin · **Posted:** Thu Jan 13, 2011 10:50:02 am

As far as I can determine there is not an equivalent to Roly's solvent available in the UK. The key constituent seems to be n-hexane and I have not found any solvent or lighter fluid that contains it in the UK. Anyone else in the UK had any success?

chippin

Allanswood · **Posted:** Thu Jan 13, 2011 11:34:32 am

Chippin, you should have it as "Coleman Fuel"

http://members.iinet.net.au/~mbuckler/fuel/index.shtml

Seapaws · **Posted:** Thu Jan 13, 2011 12:00:00 pm

For the new, self sticking stamps, this works without fail. I should also add that unless you rub the back the original glue stays on so those items you get without being cancel you can re-cycle!!!

I use a spray called Citrus Spash. Comes in a non-aerosol, 4 oz. Now I'm in the USA and this is made in California. I did sent two bottles to friends in Great Britain who said it works " Super". It has a heavy citrus smell.

IF you can do this outside or at least take the envelopes out you sprayed it on out it will help. That's really all I can add. Its very inexpensive, abouy $4.00 a can. Seapaws..USA

norvic · **Posted:** Thu Jan 13, 2011 19:37:40 pm

chippin wrote:

As far as I can determine there is not an equivalent to Roly's solvent available in the UK. The key constituent seems to be n-hexane and I have not found any solvent or lighter fluid that contains it in the UK. Anyone else in the UK had any success?

chippin

Two things that do work on UK stamps including the security Machins - Betterware Sticky Stuff Remover and pure alcohol*.

* A friend says that this is what he uses, and I have seen it demonstrated. However, I don't actually know whether it is high-strength vodka or something obtainable from a chemist. It is colourless.

chippin · **Posted:** Thu Jan 13, 2011 21:35:47 pm

I did try our local camping shops for Coleman Fuel - without success. None of the alternatives they stocked contained the magic 'n-hexane'. I have just noticed it is available on eBay, post free. I'm amazed it can be posted!

The Bettaware, sticky-stuff remover is twice the price.

As to alcohol, I prefer best bitter to vodka so don't think i'll try that one!

chippin

norvic · **Posted:** Thu Jan 13, 2011 22:48:50 pm

chippin wrote:

I did try our local camping shops for Coleman Fuel - without success. None of the alternatives they stocked contained the magic 'n-hexane'. I have just noticed it is available on eBay, post free. I'm amazed it can be posted!

The Bettaware, sticky-stuff remover is twice the price.

As to alcohol, I prefer best bitter to vodka so don't think i'll try that one!

chippin

World of Camping list Coleman at £5.20 for a litre but out of stock
Bettware's product is £5.99 for 250 ml so an even bigger gap than you suggest. I haven't tried setting light to Bettaware, there is no 'flammable' warning, so I would far rather use that near my stamps than something for camping stoves :shock:

GroundRex · **Posted:** Fri Jan 14, 2011 03:55:32 am

very helpful thread. Today i came across 2 stamps on a piece of paper that seem really old and i cannot see where they are from or the price of them. So i will use these methods to see.

norvic · **Posted:** Fri Jan 14, 2011 04:09:01 am

If they are 'really old' they are probably not self-adhesive so don't need these methods. Maybe you had better show is a picture first, here or in their own thread.

GroundRex · **Posted:** Fri Jan 14, 2011 04:15:56 am

norvic wrote:

If they are 'really old' they are probably not self-adhesive so don't need these methods. Maybe you had better show is a picture first, here or in their own thread.

I will scan them onto this thread tomorrow. 4:15am here down under

norvic · **Posted:** Fri Jan 14, 2011 04:23:58 am

GroundRex wrote:

norvic wrote:

If they are 'really old' they are probably not self-adhesive so don't need these methods. Maybe you had better show is a picture first, here or in their own thread.

I will scan them onto this thread tomorrow. 4:15am here down under

But you're awake now.... :evil:

GroundRex · **Posted:** Fri Jan 14, 2011 04:24:54 am

norvic wrote:

GroundRex wrote:

norvic wrote:

If they are 'really old' they are probably not self-adhesive so don't need these methods. Maybe you had better show is a picture first, here or in their own thread.

I will scan them onto this thread tomorrow. 4:15am here down under

But you're awake now.... :evil:

Rest of the house isnt. I will quote you when i scan them up so you get a message about it.

duck · **Posted:** Fri Jan 14, 2011 05:30:10 am

norvic wrote:

chippin wrote:

As far as I can determine there is not an equivalent to Roly's solvent available in the UK. The key constituent seems to be n-hexane and I have not found any solvent or lighter fluid that contains it in the UK. Anyone else in the UK had any success?

chippin

Two things that do work on UK stamps including the security Machins - Betterware Sticky Stuff Remover and pure alcohol*.

* A friend says that this is what he uses, and I have seen it demonstrated. However, I don't actually know whether it is high-strength vodka or something obtainable from a chemist. It is colourless.

I think the alcohol your friend may be using is isopropyl alcohol. It is more commonly known as the rubbing alcohol found in drug stores. When bought from drug store, check the bottle to ensure it is close to 100% strength.

It is typically sold in diluted strength to save money for the manufacturers and 100% strength is not needed for household use normally. When I worked in a sign shop, we bought 100% strength in 5 gallon pails from a chemical supply house. It was used to remove residue left from pulling sticky letters off signs.

Note, if using isopropyl alcohol, to purchase it as close to 100% strength as you can. You have to rub harder to remove the adhesive when using lower strength alcohol which may cause damage to your stamps...70% strength is virtually useless except to disinfect.

Also, it should go without saying but I will anyways, this alcohol is not for ingestion and the fumes may make you lightheaded.

chippin · **Posted:** Mon Jan 17, 2011 09:15:26 am

duck wrote

Quote:

Also, it should go without saying but I will anyways, this alcohol is not for ingestion and the fumes may make you lightheaded.

I'll stick with Coleman Fuel then - apparently it is the preferred fluid of fire-eaters!

Kev · **Posted:** Mon Jan 17, 2011 11:41:24 am

FWIW isopropyl alcohol (IPA) is what is supplied in small bottles for cleaning tape recorders. I also use a few drops on transistor radio volume controls to stop the scratchy static noise - works well!

Be aware that it is flammable.

Kev.

Drew Thompson · **Posted:** Mon Jan 17, 2011 19:01:34 pm

fromdownunder wrote:

mrboggler wrote:

now the problem is WHAT ONES, this is perhaps why I posed the question

Ron.

Ron, there is a further problem, as even within single issue I have found some that soak just fine (fine for a P&S, that is) and some that simply thin or will not let go of the gum, even if it is the same stamp as the previous one.

I wonder if there is a slightly different method for P&S gumming on booklet and roll stamps, and whether this is why I have problems with what appears to be the same stamp.

And, how can you tell which is which on two identical stamps both used on paper?

Norm

I find that sometimes it is the kind of paper that is the problem. The thicker heavier paper seems to deback easier and the thin stuff usually disintegrates leaving the glue.

norvic · **Posted:** Mon Jan 17, 2011 20:20:48 pm

For US stamps the Virtual Stamp Club has, for the last few years, indicated 'soakability' in it's schedules pages by means of the RYG Traffic lights - see 2009.

GlenStephens · **Posted:** Mon Jan 17, 2011 21:58:56 pm

duck wrote:

Also, it should go without saying but I will anyways, this alcohol is not for ingestion and the fumes may make you lightheaded.

Darn .. now you tell me. :mrgreen:

Kloster · **Posted:** Tue Jan 18, 2011 01:57:29 am

For Danish P&S (Danmark) stamps, just use water, works wonders

Kloster

norvic · **Posted:** Tue Jan 18, 2011 02:07:16 am

Kloster wrote:

For Danish P&S (Danmark) stamps, just use water, works wonders

Kloster

In that case Denmark hasn't yet eliminated the water-soluble layer between stamp and gum as Royal Mail and USPS acknowledge they have.

Oldstamps · **Posted:** Tue Jan 18, 2011 22:43:22 pm

I have read on Stampboards various opinions on the proper procedure for removing stamps from paper. What I haven't been able to find yet is the source recommendation for how much cleaner should be added to the hot water. What works best that can be found in the United States?

Thank you!

Allanswood · **Posted:** Wed Jan 26, 2011 18:35:30 pm

I use nothing except lukewarm clean (rainwater).

Some have suggested to use 1 drop (a very small amount) of normal dishwashing liquid in a large bowl of water.

If you want to be safer use a drop of car wash as it is far less damaging than dishwashing liquid. Dishwashing liquid tends to "strip".

On older, delicate stamps, I personally wouldn't use anything except water on untarnished stamps.

Old Yeti · **Posted:** Fri Jan 28, 2011 18:38:43 pm

Quote:

I use nothing except lukewarm clean (rainwater).

Some have suggested to use 1 drop (a very small amount) of normal dishwashing liquid in a large bowl of water.

If you want to be safer use a drop of car wash as it is far less damaging than dishwashing liquid. Dishwashing liquid tends to "strip".

On older, delicate stamps, I personally wouldn't use anything except water on untarnished stamps.

I completely agree with Allanswood especially as a final rinse/soak. And the purer the water is the better (some archive researchers have found that iron and copper content of the water may have a long term effect on the likelihood of foxing/toning).

For important stamps a final soak/wash in distilled water is also a good idea (rainwater away from cities and hence less likely to be 'acidic' maybe OK, but I would not use rainwater from industrial areas...acid rain effect). In areas like South Australia, where the water has a high mineral content, de-ionized or distilled water is probably a must.

I have also been thinking that a mild laundry soap like Lux maybe worth testing as it is designed for cleaning cotton garments which,like paper, are mostly made from cellulose fibres. But I have not tried it yet or checked its pH, mildly alkaline would probably be OK.

Finally, theses days disposable gloves can be bought cheaply in boxes like Kleenex, it's a good idea to wear gloves when de-papering. There has been practically no work done (that I have been able to find) on the transmission of fungal or other infections in this manner. Most bacteria and fungi readily form spores when their habitat dries up hence are potentially capable of hiding behind a stamp for years, and be still viable on re-hydration.

hope that helps,

alex

ozstamps · **Posted:** Fri Jan 28, 2011 18:49:20 pm

Yes using warm to hot water ONLY is the obvious first choice. That often frees off hinges and most of the dust and trail dirt of the past 100 years.

I was sold a stockbook -- 1000s of pre war stamps this week some lunatic had "cleaned up" before he mailed them.

I basically needed to put on sunglasses to see them!

The cretin had bleached the living daylights out of EVERYTHING!

2/- Jubillees, 5/- Roos, 1/- Anzacs and decent KGV heads etc.

I paid him about HALF what they'd have been worth if Mr Genius had not been at work. i.e. he LOST several $100s by being way too clever.

Glen

Old Yeti · **Posted:** Sat Jan 29, 2011 10:46:54 am

Quote:

The cretin had bleached the living daylights out of EVERYTHING!

I feel a bit sorry for him, as only 6 or so months ago I might have done the same, trying to make them look good...sort of like polishing your car or getting it detailed before you sell it. Or cleaning your house before your newly hired house-cleaner arrives I guess it's a natural human reaction.

If knowledge is power, then ignorance is worse than the opposite. On the other hand, if he was trying to fudge their value by giving them a wash then the plan backfired on him and I guess "justice was done"

Was he a long-time collector or just someone that had inherited a collection and just thought he would 'polish-it-up' for you, do you know?

alex

Global Administrator · **Posted:** Sat Jan 29, 2011 10:56:58 am

He was a stamp club member and someone told him to "clean them up" before he offered them for sale. :shock:

Anyway, they were pre war stamps - we are drifting away from this thread's subject .. which is -

'How to soak and clean self adhesive & peel and stick stamps!'

Tony H · **Posted:** Wed Feb 02, 2011 14:03:29 pm

Hi Guys
Here in NZ we have a product called Fuelite I have used it as a watermark detector as lighter fluid has been hard to find.

I tried an experiment today to see if it will remove the new self adhesive stamps I used UK Wallace and Gromit also a Machin £1 with the new royal mail in background and oval cutouts.

Not easy and a bit messy and you have to take your time but I think the end result is OK also 2 stamps have no post mark!!

Will try some USA examples which are unsoakable.

Tony H
http://www.worldstamps.co.nz

Allanswood · **Posted:** Wed Feb 02, 2011 19:59:02 pm

So you didn't watch Roly RJ's video earlier on, showing that?

norvic · **Posted:** Wed Feb 02, 2011 20:08:23 pm

They were probably on a parcel or kiloware but if they were on ordinary airmail letters they would have been much scarcer if they had been left there. We never see those properly used here

Tony H · **Posted:** Wed Feb 02, 2011 21:26:27 pm

Hi Guys
Yes I have seen Roly,s Video ( the Link does not work anymore ) about New Zealand self adhesive stamps. my experiment was to see if Fuelite would work on UK stamps.

norvic yes these examples were given to me by a friend for my collection already cut from the envelope.

Tony H
http://www.worldstamps.co.nz

Allanswood · **Posted:** Wed Feb 02, 2011 22:32:39 pm

Rolys link is not broken, I just watched it again.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nWMcVYgIZjM

And in it he removes Aus, NZ, USA and NZ stamps!

Tony H · **Posted:** Thu Feb 03, 2011 05:01:25 am

ozstamps wrote:

And when you get bored using Ronsonol for stamps ..............

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wsYIu2ohVFY

This link on page 2 of this thread on my computer does not work.

Tony H
http://www.worldstamps.co.nz

Allanswood · **Posted:** Thu Feb 03, 2011 10:36:51 am

Tony, that link in your post is not for Roly's video.

That's why I posted the correct link in mine just above! :shock:

As you can quite clearly see - it's not the same link!

(Sometimes I wonder why I bother...)

Tony H · **Posted:** Thu Feb 03, 2011 17:32:08 pm

I can see that now So why was it in this topic and what was it ?

Tony H

Global Administrator · **Posted:** Thu Feb 03, 2011 23:25:58 pm

Tony H wrote:

I can see that now So why was it in this topic and what was it ?

Why not email youtube and ask them, and not bother us with such absurd posts?

Allanswood · **Posted:** Fri Feb 04, 2011 00:38:53 am

Tony H wrote:

I can see that now So why was it in this topic and what was it ?

Tony H

Ah, I see what you mean Tony.

Previous multi threads (about the same topic) have been merged here as they were all the one topic being discussed.

The other youtube link was a joke link about what not to do with Ronsonol.
As we don't know who put the video up it now appears to have been scrubbed from youtube.

But Roly's is a beauty.

PhilaSeb29 · **Posted:** Thu Mar 24, 2011 03:52:23 am

Hello!

I use boiling paper with dishwashing liquid. I let the stamp in it less than 5 minutes, and take the paper with the glue off the stamp. It works (to my point of view : a specialist should look at the back of the stamps to be sure) for several countries (Finland, Germany, NZ, Australia, France, USA...).

One problem : when the glue is on the front of the stamps, along the perforations, it's hard to remove it

uncadonego · **Posted:** Thu Mar 24, 2011 15:17:15 pm

I'm a terrible cook, I can't even boil paper... :wink:

PhilaSeb29 · **Posted:** Thu Mar 24, 2011 21:09:56 pm

uncadonego wrote:

I'm a terrible cook, I can't even boil paper... :wink:

It's a subtle dish, isn't it ? You can serve it with a glass of black ink :lol:

Comrade Kitov · **Posted:** Fri Apr 01, 2011 06:09:57 am

Hello,

I have had dozens of the curious US mountain Airmail stamps over the years but I have not recently been able to soak them off properly (have they changed the glue?), does anyone have any techniques to do so?

I have no problem with the majority of current UK ones that seem to come off in hot water without too much problem. This doesn't work for the US ones.

Any help apreciated!

CK

grantsstamps · **Posted:** Fri Apr 01, 2011 11:25:55 am

check this out:---->http://www.youtube.com/user/RolyRJ?feature=mhum#p/u/5/nWMcVYgIZjM

norvic · **Posted:** Fri Apr 01, 2011 18:44:17 pm

Comrade Kitov wrote:

Hello,

I have had dozens of the curious US mountain Airmail stamps over the years but I have not recently been able to soak them off properly (have they changed the glue?), does anyone have any techniques to do so?

I have no problem with the majority of current UK ones that seem to come off in hot water without too much problem. This doesn't work for the US ones.

Any help apreciated!

CK

Please clarify 'current UK ones' - definitives, commemoratives, self-stick or water-activated gum?? Cos if you find them easy we're doing something wrong!

Comrade Kitov · **Posted:** Sat Apr 02, 2011 17:44:53 pm

By UK ones, I mean standard 1st/2nd class queen's head ones, christmas ones.

Thanks,

CK

norvic · **Posted:** Sun Apr 03, 2011 04:06:38 am

Well if you can get the security-featured 1st & 2nd (and others) or Christmas from 2009/10 soaked off using only water the rest of us must be doing something wrong because there is no water-soluble adhesive on those stamps and the only way to remove them from paper is with alcohol or orange-citrus oil solution.

Comrade Kitov · **Posted:** Sun Apr 03, 2011 21:00:25 pm

I find that (very) hot water works.

norvic · **Posted:** Mon Apr 04, 2011 03:33:56 am

In the past we found that very hot water usually turned the phosphor bands white, so that was not a good solution then. A better solution now, which saves keeping a lot of water hot, is orange oil.

pelmen · **Posted:** Wed Apr 13, 2011 12:29:12 pm

Just to expand this topic slightly, how about special versions of stamps such as those with an added plastic coat or foil component to "highlight" parts of the design of a regular issue stamp?

Foiled issues can sometimes crack and flake when trying to soak. Plastic coating issues tend to curl into a tube or worse, into an unflattenable wonky mess. Then there are the lenticulars (3D stamps, they change picture as you tilt the stamp). The construction of those involves layers of plastic and papers, I've never been game to try to soak any off piece yet...just trim them close an into the album.

These issues are sometimes peel & stick versions, sometimes regular sheet versions. They are very easy to ruin when trying to soak, especially the plastic coated ones.

I'll try to outline my general soaking approach and methodology. Pretty much all stamps are (not 100% all though) removable with either plain water or with a solvant (eg lighter fluid, shellite, etc). However since water seems to absorb into paper causing the fibres to loosen and the paper to "expand" slightly then non-water soluble glue and plastic/foil coatings stay where they are. This results in the stamps being damaged and deformed.

Normal stamps:

So my first step is with shellite. While this readily soaks in it doesn't seem to effect the paper the same way water does so it quickly gets to the glue layer and I can test if its working by sliding my tweezers (one arm) under the stamp. If it easily slides under then I continue with removal process that's been outlined elsewhere in this thread (ie popping it back into the shellite and scrapping to remove all the glues etc). If I can't slide the tweezers under then the stamp will better respond to water soaking, so I dry off the stamp and add it to the pile of stamps I need to water soak. For normal stamps removed with shellite I usually dip them into hot water afterwards to help try to displace shellite (I don't trust what the unknown long-term effects it'll have on the stamps are), it also seems to congeal any remaining glue that's still on the back so I can quickly remove that and re-dip in hot water. Then it goes, slightly damp, into the drying book with other stamps to dry flat properly.

Special stamps:

These I find need more care to handle. So my first step is to try to make sure the stamp on piece is as flat as possible and I like to have a bit of spare paper all around the stamp for extra handling. Next I place the stamp on piece flat on top of the shellite with the stamp facing up. I want the shellite to get to the glue layer quickly and evenly. It seems to me its saturating into the piece paper but the glue layer prevents (or minimises) it reaching the actual stamp paper or its plastic/foil coatings. I then lay the stamp flat face down on a clean flat surface (on a clean sheet of paper it seems fine and doesn't suck the shellite out ). Then I carefully try to slide my tweezers under to remove. Keeping the stamp on a flat surface helps reduce the risk of damaging the special face, foil in particular can crack easily with slight bending. Be gentle with the scraping phase of removing all the glue, don't rush the job.

For water soluble glues it's a similar process. I place the stamp again flat and face up on top of hot water for a short while. I'm trying to make sure I avoid getting the stamp itself wet, just the paper piece and the glue layer. Hot water soaks into the piece fast and should also allow you to quickly get a corner lifted. From here I work again face down on a flat surface usually with a a clean flat tissue under the stamp to absorb any water away from the stamp itself quickly. Next is usually tricky. When soaking normally you put a bunch of stamps into a container of water and they soak for a bit. Doing this with a stamp with a special coating though is problematic as the coating has made parts of the stamp less absorbant which means parts of the stamp take up water as normal, they expand slightly, but the coated regions don't. This results distortions and damage.

Even working from the back some water still makes it through all the glue and into the stamp itself and you find that the paper piece you are trying to remove might readily peel away at the edges and stop peeling when it reaches the design area with a coating on it. So I work carefully around the stamp and lift all the paper free of the stamp that I can without forcing it. At this stage my stamp is still face down with an odd shaped "cup" of paper on top where its still stuck down. I take a drop or two of the hot water and place it onto the top of the paper (in the cup) so it can soak down to reach the glue. I also sometimes use cotton tips (for cleaning your ears), dip them into the water and approach the join of paper to stamp from the side. Apply a bit of dampness to the join and carefully lift up the paper at that spot. You should be able to progressively and gently get the paper backing removed. Try to remove any water from front or rear of the stamp where its already been separated from the paper...keep that stamp dry! Once its removed you may need to use a damp cloth or tissue to wipe away the glue that remains on the rear of the stamp. Then into the drying book!

As you are putting stamps into a drying book they can start to dry slightly and curl (I don't put wet stamps into mine, I pat them dry with paper towels first so they are damp...drying books seems to last longer this way). So with special stamps I make sure they are the last items I put on a page before turning the blotter over to keep them flat. If you're plastic coating has started to distort the stamp during the removal process then try dipping your finger in water and running it around the underside edge of the stamp. Now place it into your drying book and try to work the paper and water to get the stamp as flat as you can then get the paper turned quickly. Try to get the drying book flat and under pressure as quickly as possible, don't give the plastic a chance to start curling again!

Leave it somewhere for a week to dry and you're done! This doesn't work 100% of the time, keeping the stamp dry while soaking is tricky and not always possible (I'm trying to ensure all glue is removed so its almost impossible to prevent water soaking into the stamp paper). Speed though seems to be the main factor...the faster you can work through the process the less time the water has to get into the stamp paper and the less change you have of curling.

When I'm soaking I actually sort my stamps..p&s in one pile, sheet stamps in another, whites and colours separated (paper colour, so you don't ruin a batch with one stamp on red paper), and special stamps (plastics/foils) I keep aside in another pile. I let the special pile sit for ages, I slowly add to it as I get more to soak. Then when I'm ready to soak I sort the pile which by now has lots of duplicates and I find the worse examples I can find and do practice soaking with those. Then I soak the worst of whats left and so on. I refine my technique and process along the way. It works well for me now every time, no more stamp "tubes"!

So, how do others soak their special issues? I know many probably don't and just crop them close but leave them on piece (soaking them is risky, on piece its as flat as its going to be). But I'd be interested to hear if others have found tricks of their own for actually removing these stamps, especially the plastic coated ones, from paper.

mcgooley · **Posted:** Wed Apr 13, 2011 19:33:16 pm

pelmen wrote:

Foiled issues can sometimes crack and flake when trying to soak. Plastic coating issues tend to curl into a tube or worse, into an unflattenable wonky mess. Then there are the lenticulars (3D stamps, they change picture as you tilt the stamp). The construction of those involves layers of plastic and papers, I've never been game to try to soak any off piece yet...just trim them close an into the album.

I was lucky enough to accumulate about half a dozen of the Aussie lenticulars; I chose the best one, and close-trimmed it for the album, and subjected the others (two of which had been [carefully :roll:

] cancelled with a red poster-pen :twisted:

) to a few methods of removing the backing.

DO NOT use hot water on these babies. The plastic didn't like it, and the water bled into the images - not only that, but the poster-pen ran all over them :roll:

Shallow (read: water in a dish with lots of cotton balls) COLD WATER soaking - overnight - removes the paper (well, most of it), and time and patience with cotton swabs (lots!!) dipped in shellite will remove the glue, followed by more soaking in *shallow* COLD water. Tedious, and the bu**ers can still go belly-up if the water gets into the paper section of the top of the stamp.

Not for the faint-hearted, and definitely not worth the effort or heartbreak if you only have one or two to play with.

The foils are cute. Absolutely boiling water, and use your tweezers to dip them in and out until the backing is saturated, holding as much of the stamp with the tweezers as you can; then careful scraping should remove the glue with minimal damage to the face of the stamp. Word of warning here, some of these also have a foil image on the back - I've come across two recent Aussie Xmas issues with what I can only assume to be security features - one I totally wrecked and the second I saved.

The plastic coating on some issues should be treated the same as the lenticulars, but you do have the advantage of only worrying about one layer - instead of about a dozen :roll:

norvic · **Posted:** Thu Apr 21, 2011 21:02:06 pm

mcgooley wrote:

Word of warning here, some of these also have a foil image on the back - I've come across two recent Aussie Xmas issues with what I can only assume to be security features - one I totally wrecked and the second I saved.

It would be good to see stamps with the foil on the back - deliberate or variety?


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