Wow, some nice items there. I call these Magpie accumulations (from what you’ve shown, it’s hard to tell if they had a theme, or “just accumulated shiny things”).
The value of the whole box, to a large extent, depends on how much work YOU are prepared to do, to “deconstruct it, to create value”.
I think the Sheriff might be “a little light” on his valuation, but as we can’t see 75% of the contents, it’s impossible to be sure what final realisation could be. Even with the blurry pictures, I’d have guessed the box, with a few key items photographed (clearly!), would realise about AUD 500 at auction……. So that’s about $300 - $350 in your hand, after all the usual commissions, transport, insurance and other charges that auction houses dream up nowadays.
Why $500?…. Well the $20 NZ overprinted note, with its associated silver coin (and, I’m assuming, box and certificate) is worth that on its own, and usually more. They overprinted just 2,500 (issued 2,497) and you see them on eBay ASKING for a lot more, but very rarely getting it.
Add to that...
The 1888 Silver crown (GB) – That’s $100 coin (if real), in that condition.
The PNG 10 kina silver coin is 41.12grams of sterling silver, so that $60.
The Auckland four Commonwealth Games coins are all $25 apiece. Etc…..
Against that, there is a lot of “debris” that has been accumulated (and no one likes “buying work to do”), so you bear a penalty by offering them in a mixed lot, as buyers factor that effort into their bid.
For example, the Macau coin set, the Last LSD set (GB) and the Fanfare for Europe 50p (GB) are all fodder, as will be many of the crowns / equivalents that are in base metal, and are neither proofs nor boxed. Almost always “Less is more”, especially with the better items.
So, what should your next steps be? Well, it depends..... on YOU and YOUR circumstances.
If you have time to kill (i.e. on Furlough / retired etc), or are curious …. And are not daunted by selling things on eBay, or here, or other outlets, then you should create a plan of action.
If you are “time poor”, then consider going to a free valuation day at a local specialist auction house. (Once, and done, as they say).
If $100 of your time can be spared, then “make a manifest”.
You’ll be glad you did, as that will add direct value to the accumulation.
There are five, or so, markets you will be selling into:
1) Collectables – The “oooooh, shiny” people. For them, completeness of sets, and certificates / cases are important.
2) Bullion – The “stackers”. For them, the “metal content” and “closeness to bullion value” are important drivers.
3) Note collectors – Usually only interested in uncirculated notes, but make exceptions for rarities.
4) Coin collectors – Condition and authenticity are key. A lot of fake/copy 1888 Crowns exist, so you will need to research how to test for genuineness. (Diameter, thickness, weight etc).
5) Currency – Your last port of call – I see a lot of NZ currency that should never be worth less(‘ish) than face.
Your manifest should list each item / set, metal type (gold, silver, platinum etc), condition, cert of authenticity, case included (i.e. completeness).
Then go onto eBay, and look up each item
a) First for the ASKING prices (as a range Low to High), then
b) Completed items for the ACHIEVED prices.
c) (The wording others use to achieve sales can also help greatly when creating your own listing).
For any item you cannot track down on eBay (or Google), post a detailed picture here, but please make sure we can read the date. (To give you an example, the 1888 UK crown comes in narrow date and wide date format, and the price differential is substantial).
From this manifest, you can arrive at what your disposal plan should be….
There may be several items with an expected realisation value over $50. You may wish to sell / offer these separately.
There may be a whole box of $10 items, in which case, you may choose to “block dispose”. (Remember that block disposal only achieves maybe 10-20% (if you are lucky) of the cash YOU could have achieved yourself, if YOU put the effort in, but a lot of the cost of sales is hidden in extra "carriage" and "time" to achieve the sales
“Those that do the work deserve the reward”
One thing you can be fairly sure of is that 80% of the value will be in just 20% of the materials, so you can dramatically save space by just “getting rid of the fodder”.
Assuming there is no buried gold in the box, and relevant certificates, and cases are present (just not photographed), I’d suggest you might achieve a total realisation of maybe five to ten times the Sheriffs ballpark, but it will involve an incredible amount of work (i.e. time).
He gave you a commercial quote based on what he could see, and the work involved… and nowadays a huge part of the value rests “in the work necessary to achieve sales”.
Remember also that coins are HEAVY, and that selling and shipping costs of “fodder, individually” usually amounts to a zero sum game, when all costs are accounted for (Including your time). (Ever wondered why Glen sells his “toxic waste” as one lot?)
And if you do sell bulk for quick cash, then sit back and watch someone else reap the rewards of all THEIR hard work, please don’t say I didn’t warn you!!
Hope this is helpful.